Onigiri and the convenience store

The rice ball in nori is Japan's sandwich, and the convenience store's version — salmon, pickled plum, tuna mayonnaise, in a wrapper that keeps the seaweed crisp — is a fair breakfast for a coin. The conbini itself is one of Japan's quiet wonders: hot coffee, egg sandwiches, clean lavatories, ATMs that take foreign cards, and a staff who will heat your bento. Specialist onigiri shops in Asakusa and Otsuka make the artisanal version to order.