Tokyo / Shibuya
Shibuya渋谷
The crossing, the dog, the rooftop above it all — and the streets uphill where Tokyo's music, food and small-scale nightlife actually live.
Shibuya's scramble crossing is the image of Tokyo — three thousand people at each green light — and the new towers around the station have put a rooftop 230 metres above it. But Shibuya is a valley, and the interesting streets climb out of it: Dogenzaka's love hotels and clubs, the record shops of Udagawacho, the bars of Nonbei Yokocho under the railway, and up the hill to the north the quieter quarters of Tomigaya and Kamiyamacho with their bakeries and natural wine. It is the city's youth and its evening, and it is best entered around five.
One-day itineraries
Places (6)
Shibuya scramble crossing and Hachiko渋谷スクランブル交差点とハチ公
Three thousand people per green light, a bronze dog who waited ten years, and the best free view from the station's upper floors.
30 min · Shibuya (JR / Ginza / Hanzomon / Fukutoshin lines, Tokyu, Keio), Hachiko exit
Shibuya Sky渋谷スカイ
An open rooftop at 230 metres, with the crossing directly below and Fuji, the Tower and the Skytree around the horizon.
75 min · Shibuya, direct from the station's east side
Nonbei Yokocho and the Shibuya alleysのんべい横丁と渋谷の路地
"Drunkard's Alley" — forty bars of five seats each under the railway, unchanged since 1950, a minute from the crossing.
90 min · Shibuya (JR), Hachiko exit, 2 minutes along the tracks
Udagawacho record shops and Shibuya vintage宇田川町のレコード店と渋谷の古着
The densest square kilometre of record shops in the world — jazz, city pop, hip-hop, each on its own floor.
120 min · Shibuya, Hachiko exit, 5 minutes uphill past Tower Records
Tomigaya and Kamiyamacho富ヶ谷と神山町
The quiet hill north of Shibuya — bakeries, natural wine, a bookshop-bar, and the streets where the city's creative people live.
90 min · Yoyogi-koen (Chiyoda line) or Yoyogi-Hachiman (Odakyu), 3 minutes
Live music in Shibuya渋谷のライブハウス
From a two-hundred-capacity basement to WWW's former cinema — the small rooms where Japanese bands are found first.
180 min · Shibuya, Hachiko exit, all within 10 minutes
Experiences
- An izakaya evening in the alleys · ¥¥
- Jazz, in a jazz kissa and a club · ¥¥
- The city from above at dusk · ¥¥
- Making ramen from scratch · ¥¥
- Standing sushi · ¥¥
- A Japanese lesson before you need it · ¥¥
- A photography walk with a local photographer · ¥¥¥
- A guided food tour at night · ¥¥¥
- Karaoke, in a box · ¥
Operators
Food
- Ramen · ¥
- Yakitori · ¥¥
- The kissaten · ¥
- The izakaya · ¥¥
- Onigiri and the convenience store · ¥
- Specialty coffee · ¥