Unagi

Freshwater eel, split, steamed, then grilled over charcoal with a sweet soy glaze and laid on rice in a lacquer box (unaju). The Tokyo way steams before grilling, so the flesh is soft; the old houses in Nihonbashi, Asakusa and Kanda have been at it since the Edo period and charge accordingly. Sea eel (anago) is the gentler cousin, sold at sushi and tempura counters.