Yakitori

Chicken, every part of it, on skewers over binchotan charcoal, seasoned with salt (shio) or glaze (tare): thigh, skin, meatball, liver, the tail, the cartilage. The alleys under the tracks — Yurakucho, Omoide Yokocho — serve it in the smoke for a few hundred yen a skewer; the counters in Ebisu and Nakameguro turn it into a twelve-course tasting. Order two skewers at a time and keep going.