Golden Gai
ゴールデン街 ごーるでんがい
Six alleys, two hundred bars, eight seats each — the writers' and film-makers' drinking quarter that outlived every redevelopment.
EssentialLate night · Local life · History · Photogenic
Two-storey wooden buildings from the early 1950s, shoulder to shoulder in six lanes behind Kabukicho, each ground floor a bar the width of a corridor with a theme chosen by its owner: 1960s film, punk, jazz, a particular novelist, a particular football club. Golden Gai was the postwar underworld's, then the writers', and now anyone's, but the rules hold — most bars charge a seat fee, some are members-only and say so on the door, photography inside is by permission, and the good ones are the ones where the owner is talking. Two bars, a couple of hours, a taxi home.
Don't miss
- The lanes themselves at ten at night, lanterns and cables and two hundred doors
- A bar chosen because its door was open and its theme made you laugh
- The Hanazono Shrine next door, where the district prays on its way home
- Tip
- Look for a sign saying the seat charge in English and a price list; those bars want you.
- Best time
- 9 pm to midnight, any night; closed for a week at New Year.
- Allow
- 120 min
- Station
- Shinjuku-sanchome (Marunouchi / Fukutoshin / Shinjuku lines), exit E1, 5 minutes
- Official site — hours, prices, closures
- goldengai.jp · Map
Appears in
In this area: Shinjuku
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An imperial garden of English lawns, French avenues and a Japanese pond — the finest cherry blossom and autumn colour in Tokyo.
120 min · Shinjuku-gyoemmae (Marunouchi line), 5 minutes; Shinjuku, 10 minutes
Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building observatories東京都庁展望室
Tange's twin-towered city hall, with two free observatories at 202 metres and Fuji on a clear morning.
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Omoide Yokocho思い出横丁
"Memory Lane" — sixty yakitori and motsu stalls under smoke beside the west exit, since 1946.
60 min · Shinjuku (JR), west exit, 1 minute