Tokyo / Kagurazaka / District
Dining in Kagurazaka
神楽坂で食べる かぐらざかでたべる
Kaiseki behind black fences, French bistros from the institute's shadow, a hundred-year-old sweet shop, and pétanque on Sundays.
Worth itFood · High-end · Late night · History
Kagurazaka is the one district where Tokyo's two great restaurant traditions sit in the same lane: the ryotei and kaiseki houses inherited from the geisha quarter, and the French bistros, boulangeries and crêperies that grew up around the Institut français from 1952. Between them are a Meiji-era sweet shop whose ohagi rice cakes sell out by noon, an oden counter that has been open since the Taisho era, soba houses, and the small counters — six seats, one chef — that make this the district Tokyoites choose for a birthday. Book the kaiseki; walk in to the bistro; queue for the sweets.
Don't miss
- A kaiseki dinner in a ryotei's private room, the meal built around the month
- Ohagi from Baikatei, sold from a window since 1935
- Sunday pétanque and the pedestrian slope, when the district comes out to play
- Tip
- Ryotei often take bookings only by phone in Japanese; ask your hotel concierge, which is what the concierge is for.
- Best time
- Dinner, any night but Sunday, when many close.
- Allow
- 150 min
- Station
- Iidabashi or Kagurazaka, the whole slope between them
- Official site — hours, prices, closures
- www.kagurazaka.in · Map
Appears in
In this area: Kagurazaka
Kagurazaka's stone lanes神楽坂の石畳の路地
Hyogo Yokocho and Kakurenbo Yokocho — black fences, lanterns, cobbles, and the geisha quarter that still works.
60 min · Iidabashi (JR / Tozai / Yurakucho / Namboku / Oedo lines), exit B3, 3 minutes uphill
Akagi Shrine赤城神社
A 700-year-old shrine rebuilt by Kengo Kuma in glass and cypress, with a café and a Sunday market at the top of the hill.
30 min · Kagurazaka (Tozai line), exit 1, 1 minute
Zenkokuji Bishamonten善國寺 毘沙門天
The red temple halfway up the slope, guardian of the district since 1595, with tigers for lions and a night market of lanterns.
15 min · Iidabashi, exit B3, 5 minutes up the slope