Tokyo / Kagurazaka
Kagurazaka神楽坂
The old geisha quarter on a hill — cobbled lanes, black-fenced ryotei, a French institute, and the most Parisian evening in Tokyo.
Kagurazaka climbs from the Iidabashi moat as a single sloping street, and its side lanes — Hyogo Yokocho, Kakurenbo Yokocho — are stone-paved alleys of black fences and lanterns where the geisha houses of the 1920s stood and a few still work. The French institute has been here since 1952, which explains the bistros and the boulangeries between the ryotei; the main street has a shrine at the top, a temple halfway with a giant statue of Bishamonten, and a Sunday pedestrian afternoon. It is small, it is twenty minutes from anywhere, and it is the best place in the city to eat dinner and then get lost.
One-day itineraries
Places (4)
Kagurazaka's stone lanes神楽坂の石畳の路地
Hyogo Yokocho and Kakurenbo Yokocho — black fences, lanterns, cobbles, and the geisha quarter that still works.
60 min · Iidabashi (JR / Tozai / Yurakucho / Namboku / Oedo lines), exit B3, 3 minutes uphill
Akagi Shrine赤城神社
A 700-year-old shrine rebuilt by Kengo Kuma in glass and cypress, with a café and a Sunday market at the top of the hill.
30 min · Kagurazaka (Tozai line), exit 1, 1 minute
Dining in Kagurazaka神楽坂で食べる
Kaiseki behind black fences, French bistros from the institute's shadow, a hundred-year-old sweet shop, and pétanque on Sundays.
150 min · Iidabashi or Kagurazaka, the whole slope between them
Zenkokuji Bishamonten善國寺 毘沙門天
The red temple halfway up the slope, guardian of the district since 1595, with tigers for lions and a night market of lanterns.
15 min · Iidabashi, exit B3, 5 minutes up the slope
Experiences
- Kaiseki in a private room · ¥¥¥¥
- Being dressed in a kimono · ¥¥
- Kintsugi — mending with gold · ¥¥
- An ikebana lesson · ¥¥
- A yakitori omakase counter · ¥¥¥
- A sake-pairing dinner · ¥¥¥¥
- Japanese whisky at a bar that knows it · ¥¥¥
- An evening with geisha · ¥¥¥¥
- The antiques and flea markets · ¥
- A rowing boat on the palace moat · ¥
- A baseball game at the Dome or Jingu · ¥¥
Operators
- Yomiuri Giants - Tokyo Dome · ¥¥
- Edo Kagura - Kagurazaka Geisha Evening · ¥¥¥¥
- Kagurazaka Kappo Kaga · ¥¥¥¥
- Kagurazaka Ishikawa · ¥¥¥¥
- Kagurazaka Kohaku · ¥¥¥¥
- KADODE Kagurazaka · ¥¥¥
- Canal Cafe Boat Rental · ¥
- Kojitsu Kaiseki Osaketo Kagurazaka · ¥¥¥
- 124. Kagurazaka · ¥¥¥
- Taimatsu Kagurazaka · ¥¥¥